|domestic yak--we thought maybe wild yak, but no|
June 4, 2006, Day 18
|last big walk|
|a good guide and true Tibetan|
Today I walked the most I have walked on this trip--4 hours--with no headache or otherwise ill effects so far.
This morning I went toward AruTso with my binoculars just to see what I could see--lots of chiru, a huge bird with a white underside. And I just sat down in the Basin for a while and thought about all the loved ones I'd left behind. . . .
We've seen many chiru. I never tire of watching them and will miss their presence. Today on our walk we saw kiang though at some distance. This is truly a beautiful place. Jinpa thinks in ten years many more tourists will come. ...The Chang Tang is full of contrasts--hot sun, cold snow, noonday stillness, raging winds, the peaks and the plains, the huge glacial hills and tiny wild flowers. For me the contrasts have been beauty and incredible loneliness, the excitement of a new place and homesickness for my regular life. I think now, at the end of 18 days and the end of our next to last day in the Aru Basin, I can say I'm glad I came but I'm ready to go.
9:15 p.m. Beijing time
After supper I just went for a short walk on the plains to watch chiru a bit. They are so close and so available for watching now. Chiru have been the best part of this trip.
|vegetation on the Chang Tang|
June 5, Day 19, Monday 1:02 p.m. Beijing time
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